With London Fashion Week ending a week ago, focus has shifted to Milan Fashion Week, where a number of designers have displayed their S/S 2016 Menswear collections. The linen, relaxed nature, and light colors associated with S/S collections have of course appeared, but other unexpected surprises have manifested themselves as well.
The German house Jil Sander, though the queen of minimalism herself no longer runs the house, did display her signature minimalism in its use of blocks of color and solid colored pieces on its runway show. Uniquely, the collection was almost entirely made out of functional materials. Blazers, trousers, and coats made out of what looked like raincoat-material plastic coated fabrics gave the collection a functional aspect and created a futuristic look with its sleek textures. Though the collection utilized minimalism as expected, Jil Sander creative Rodolfo Paglialunga also expressed himself in the collection, using bustling patterns delicately throughout and creating a contrast with the Sander minimalism.
Damir Doma brought out a number of his signature loose, draped, and flowing silhouettes in typical summer colors of light grey, white, even salmon, while including darker tones of blues and greens appeared with a surprising prominence. Less busy than his winter collection, it seemed to be a refinement and minimalistic view of what we know as Damir Doma. Raw and deconstructed sweaters, linen overcoat choices dangling over the floor, and slices of various precious stones adorning the necks were the highlights of the show.
Bottega Veneta brought an unexpectedly rugged collection for its S/S menswear. Hiking boots, sandals, zip-up hoodies, and anoraks brought an adventurous vibe to the runway. Even bomber jackets were given a raw edge, made with technical fleece and the busy taped seams of a functional piece. A backpack or two along with single-strap bags fit right in with the mountaineering gear filling the catwalk. Similar to Jil Sander, Bottega Veneta has given a collection that is not only stylish, but has a functional purpose as well.