Refresh for the imminent new season with my five key men’s trends and the way to frame them this spring.
Old school Americana was rebooted for 2014. At Saint Laurent it was of the edgy L.A kind. Sequins, patent leather, leopard and zebra and lame brought out the showman. Gold mirrored matte aviators were the eyewear flash of genius. Etro went out West and intricate tooling became appliqué curls over suits and guitar cases. The dusty desert palette was splashed with bright colour pops. Topman Design made its mark on the cowboy shirt updating it with metallic accompaniment. Bottega Veneta’s was the most contemporary with bold black outlines and chalk marks. The key is a great shirt. Look for Western detail; piping, florals and looped or peaked lapel collars. But sunglasses are as ever what will bring the cool factor.
A squared off wayfarer is a great and versatile choice. Make wayfarers and aviators matte and mirrored, or both for the essential contemporary twist. The Burberry Heritage 4154Q is perfect for the look. There are hand stitched leather temples to match your jacket too. For mirrors look to the keyhole bridged Dirty Dog Monza. The Ray-Ban Chris in its new velvet incarnation comes with fiery flash mirrors too. It’s the perfect rock star twist.
Florals are big for men this spring/summer. Gucci, Prada and Burberry all did them beautifully. But it’s not for everyone. Camo is the perfect way to get the same effect. Indeed some of those florals came off like camo. Valentino, Belstaff, Christopher Raeburn and Lee Roach all offered fresh takes on camouflage. Just in time for the season Ray-Ban goes urban with the Original 2140 Wayfarer. Those classic winged arms come covered in camo fabric. The face is matte. That natural fabric is a real classy finish to the handmade frame. It has what it takes to accompany smart looks as well as casual urban cool.
The elegance of pale grey is often taken for granted. The designers gave it the attention it deserves on the spring/summer runways. Paul Smith, Emporio Armani, Z Zegna and Jil Sander all produced great new grey looks. It’s felt really fresh in eyewear too for some time. The Oliver Peoples Sheldrake in its streaked grey remains a firm favourite with me. It’s all going on here. But as great menswear should be, it’s classic and newness is subtle. The payoff at the temples after the streaking is huge. Turn the head and flash ultra contemporary crystal clear arms. Through the temples to boot is an Oliver Peoples branded core wire. Blue lenses brighten up the grey and make for a great signature to set you apart.
Even Paul Smith’s runway was pink this season. At Tom Ford there was more pink tailoring, tone on tone with stand out texture. At Giorgio Armani it was in a pale soft tailored jacket and teamed with grey. Playful, fresh and confident pink is a great colour to bring into your palette and this is the season to do it. Bobby Gillespie was ahead of the game donning head to toe fuchsia at Glastonbury last year. It has got a touch of the rock star about it when you go all the way with a deeper pink. Not too many men venture into it; it comes off confident, showy and original. Ray-Ban’s latest take on its Justin is perfect. The pink is kept matte with the superbrand’s new gummy finish and along with the bold square update on the original wayfarer it’s a masculine take on pink. Rich flash mirror lenses are another must when updating your shades for 2014.
Stripes return for another season. At Marc Jacobs they were in chevrons over mono knits. At Dolce and Gabbana there were varied grades in earthy tones. At E Tautz there were blocks and verticals. Burberry Prorsum teamed them with spots in another collection that owed much to national treasure painter David Hockney. Coordination in your look colour and print wise provides an instant catwalk look. Bring your sunglasses in with the new Polo 4064. The slim temples off this masculine wayfarer come with two so very well placed stripes. The tortoise face and green lenses will be the perfect classic grounding to your 2014 brights.